Still Working in the Trenches

I've been MIA because I wanted to just sew. I really want to finish this trench coat but it's been soooooooooo slow going. First, I can only sew over the weekend providing that I am not working or not busy with other things so sewing time is a few hours here and there, if I'm lucky. Second, I'm having some sewing anxieties on the execution of this coat and that has psychologically blocked me from continuing. I might be overthinking some things like the problems I am having with the sleeves and the way a lining is going to be attached. However, I am hanging in there and continue to just work on things a little at time.

My muslin coat/practice coat turned out ok except I wanted to adjust the sleeves to allow room for bulkier clothes under the coat. I had some problems with the adjustments where I could not get it right. I've never really done any major modifications on a pattern itself so this is a first for me. Dawn, a sewing instructor at JoAnn's, is going to help me out next weekend so I can figure out what I need to do. In the meantime, I wanted continue to sew so I decided to make the coat based on my practice coat because the coat fit just fine. Therefore, I am making 2 coats using the same pattern.

I started making my 1st coat from a black twill fabric which I got for $2 per yard. (I am using the other fabric which I posted earlier for the 2nd coat.) Unbeknowst to me when I made my first cut of the fabric, I had already made a mistake. After I had cut all 7 pieces of the coat, I realized that I had cut the fabric on the wrong side. I realized the error right after I cut ALL the pieces!!!!!! That put a damper on my project. My husband said that he can hardly tell it's the wrong side but I can. However, I am so frugal that I decided to just go forward with this instead of waste the fabric.

The fabric is sooooooo blah black and I thought the coat might need a shot of color. I decided to buy 2 1/2 yards of maroon piping and attached it to the yoke. I thought adding piping would be pretty easy but it took 3 tries to do that. The fabric had to be flushed next to the piping and that was very difficult to do. After researching the web on how to do that, I found out that I needed to sew the piping on with the zipper foot. Using the zipper foot really helped because it helped me stay really close to the piping.

The other problem I had was that there was a double stitch design on outside of the yoke. My problem is that I can't sew straight and my sewing is pretty sloppy. So far this had not been a problem since my stiches were never required to be shown. This time those stiches are on the outside of the garmet. To remedy this, I continued to sew using the zipper foot to help guide my eye. The other visual guide was using the painter's tape. This really helped me keep it straight. If I strayed on the painter's tape, the tape rips right out but the stiches remain untouched.

(Nice straight lines. Yippee!!!!)

I really like how the piping looks and adds something more to the coat.

I'm getting ready to do the dreaded sleeves next. I still have to draft the pattern because the original pattern is a 3/4 sleeve but I want to change it to a long sleeve. That's a new thing for me so I need to figure that out.

Trench Coat - Update #2

I worked on my muslin for my trench coat. It took about about a few hours on Saturday and 3 more hours on Sunday. I was able to understand the intructions on this which is pretty remarkable. Usually I have to close my door in my craft room, turn off the tv and other noise making machines so I can read the instructions and concentrate on what the heck it's saying. This time I was able to understand it, amazingly enough, even with the tv on. Whoo-hoo! I think I can graduate from kindergarten of sewing and can pass go to 1st grade.

The pattern I used is a 14T - bust size 34 - back waist length 15 1/4. I did the muslin as is with no adjustments just so that I can understand how much I need to grade up. I'm petite size, my bust size is 36 and back waist is 14 1/2. It turns out that the coat fits even if I put a lining in it. However, I couldn't fit a sweater under the coat at all. So I will have to adjust the armholes and the front and back yokes to make room for thicker clothes.

It's hard to see with the picture above, but I put the right sleeve dart on the front of the garment so I have to make sure I don't do that when I actually do the coat. I am also changing the sleeves from a 3/4 sleeve to full length.

The back turned out good and I really like the pleat. The length of the coat is longer that I would like but have not decided if I want it down to the bottom of knees or down to the top of my knees? I have to look at some catalogs to see what's more appealling.

Along with the to dos noted above, I also need to draft my lining. The pattern does not call for a lining so I am working pattern-less. I am using the same pattern for the coat as my guideline but I have made a mental note to put a pleat on my back lining also. I'm also studying my sewing books on how to attach the lining to the coat which will be a challenge.

I think I am going to do another muslin, change the sleeves, make my adjustments on the armhole and do the lining. I am also practicing to do button holes because I've never done one. I am hoping the minor adjustments will be just what I need to do and I can go on to the actual coat.

P.S. This is kinda looking like one of those hospital clothes they give you minus the exposed back side!!!!!

Trench Coat - Update #1

As the weather is getting colder, the more lazier I am feeling but I am forging forward with my trench coat. I've decided some time ago that I am using Simplicity 5607 as my pattern. I like this coat but it kinda reminds me of a laboratory jacket. Like I'm going to be mistaken for a lab technician. I probably will not make it in white (although I think that would be a nice choice with black threads).

My plan of attack is to cut out the pattern on muslin first. I'm going to use my muslin as my pattern when I finally do my trench coat. So all adjustments will be made on the muslin itself.

I only sew during the weekend or on my day off so I need to kick start this right now since I can only work on it here and there. Today, I checked to make sure I have all the pieces. Since this is a vintage pattern, sometimes, pieces are missing. Luckily, I have all 7 pieces to make the coat.

I finished cutting and ironing the pattern. I normally iron the pieces to flatten them, and get the wrinkles out so that the pattern lays properly and I can easily pin them down.

But before laying the pieces on muslin, I wanted to put it on the dressform because I got a little confused on how the pieces were suppose to be put together. I've been under the weather for the past few weeks and I am having a hard time concentrating. So the last thing I wanted to do today is read confusing pattern instructions. I'll read the instructions on another day when I'm feeling better. Putting them on the dressform just makes a little more sense.

I picked out my materials and notions. I'm not one to fret about the fabric since I really do not buy anything that expensive. I'm a new sewer so it doesn't make sense right now to buy expensive fabrics. I'm using something from my fabric stash and see how it goes.

I'm using a cotton blend material that is grayish with a teal undertone ($2 per yd) and a synthetic teal fabric ($1 per yd) for the lining. This will be a very lightweight coat. If it turns out ok, I will probably do it again on a heavier fabric that is more appropriate for a trench. I also found black buttons for $1.50 and black/forest green seam binding for $1, both vintage items.

This pattern is a teen size so I need to grade it up and I am going to resize the pattern on the muslin instead of on the paper. If I mess up, I at least still have the original pattern in tack so I can start all over. My biggest concern is the fit so I want to work on that with the muslin. I am still working on doing a sloper but still have not done that so I'll do this without one for now. I probably will have tons of questions as I start putting this together so getting that all answered will make it that much more easier to do the actual coat. (Well, that's what I hope will happen.)

Outfit to be Worn Outside - Finally!

Life has been busy but I have been sewing in between the madness and craziness. However, blogging about my activities is really time consuming since I don't have much time between everything I'm doing. I wish I can automatically scan my brain and all goes in the blog. (Wouldn't that be nice and freaky!) I don't know how other bloggers find the time. It is so difficult for me. However, I must blog especially about my sewing since I really want to document my progress in sewing (no matter how badly it turned out).

My sewing is as slow as my blogging. But I've actually finished an outfit which I can wear outside the confines of my home. Hooray for me! Or should I say "FINALLY." I ve been wanting to breakout of the PJ making projects. The new outfit is not perfect but I have worn it just knocking around the neighborhood. It's a start.

I used Simplicity 3799. This is not one of my precious vintage patterns (which by the way, I found more over the labor day holiday but more on that later) but I had to use it for a sewing class I signed up for at JoAnn's. I met a realy great instructer, Dawn, at JoAnn's who is doing a workshop each month to help other sewers on anything they are working. That's very helpful since sewing is a very solitary activity for me and I don't know hardly any sewers.

It says easy to sew but again I had some problems with the instructions, as usual. I had neglected to pay attention to the grainline on the pattern so I had to redo that. I couldn't make heads or tails on how to attach the collar so I had to take my seam ripper and do that over. I actually had to cut some of the fabric at the neckline and near the bust area which affected the fit.

On the good side, my biggest accomplishment with this outfit is learning how to do the neckline (is there a name for this neckline?). I've always liked this neckline since I have several tops with similar necklines. I love the gathering detail around the neck. After learning (or should I say after making lots of mistakes) to do the gathering, making the gathers are really easy now for me. It's as if I can see a small light at the end of the sewing tunnel and now I feel like I can sew instead of just being confused all the time. (Well, I am still confused but no longer going nutty about it.)

Another item I was happy with was sewing the armholes. It looks so finished with the single binding armhole. I always wondered how that was sewn on and now the mystery is solved. Love it!

I also did my first interfacing around the collar. I used the iron on type. That was so easy so I'm not sure why I was so worried about that part.

Lastly, I am getting better on my finishing. Although the denim of the cropped pants was a little hard. It kept unravelling and I had to continually cut the threads. Not sure how to fix that. Probably need to put a seam binding next time I do denim.

Overall the outfit is baggy looking, especially the pants. Baggy clothes are ok on occasion but what I've made are too baggy for my liking. I made lots of mistakes and my seam ripper had been close at hand at all times. Regardless, I am realy proud that I finished. It's so satisfying. I lay awake at nights thinking about how I should sew it on that I over stress myself. Is that ever weird? But I can't help it. I have an obssessive gene that seems to creep up on things that I truly enjoy doing.

Also, I really think I need to draft a basic sloper. Fit has always been a big problem and I am constantly guessing. (Yikes! Another project on my already filled plate.)

There are several tops and dresses which have this very same neckline which I want to copy and make it my own. I would like to take it further than the design at hand so I'm exicited to get started with that. I've got so many ideas in my head right now but I need to slow it down a bit. I need to do one project at a time. Here is a sneak peek of a dress I am doing based on the same pattern. I added an encased elastic on the waistband. I'm still working on other details such as ruffles on the bottom half.

I also need to now get started on my trench coat which I thought about in my head but have not started at all. We shall see how that will work out.

So much to do!!!!!!

Trench Coat Sew Along

I joined a trench coat sew along which was just started and hosted by the wonderful Elizabeth at Sew A Beginner. Maybe I am crazy but I have yet to sew an outfit which I can wear outside my house. I have not tackled collars, sleeves, buttonholes and linings. I have not done anything tailored or belted. In short, I have not done much. I am a self-taught weekend sewer. Most of my knowledge about sewing comes from the web and my books. The pigs are absolutely flying right now because I can't believe I am doing this but I have to do it sometime time. Now is as good as any other time. However, I am a little nervous. What happens if I turn in some kind of hideous coat or worse, what happens if I don't finish it. Yikes!

After researching some options, I got myself confused about trench coats. What exactly is a trench coat? What makes a coat a trench as oppose to other coats. The web has many pictures of what they call a trench coat but there seems to be so many types of trench coats but are they truly trench coats? Or are they raincoats, pea coats, or some other type of coats? As usual, the English language has tripped me up again.

Per the dictionary, a trench coat is a raincoat made of waterproof or water-resistant material like wool garbardine, heavy-duty cotton drill or poplin, or some cases leather. It generally has a removable lining and it is usually knee-length or longer.

The classic trench coat --- khaki colored, double breasted with big buttons, deep pockets, belted at the waist, big lapel collar and looks like you are doing espionage duties.

The problem that I have with this coat is that I am only 5 ft tall with a short torso. The length of the coat tends to overwhelm me and the collar and belt makes me look like I've been stuff in the coat like a sausage. It's just not appealing on me in my opinion.

Preferably, I want something unbelted and the length above the knee. I also want something more A-line for a more comfortable look.

Now, my question is, with the changes I would like to make, does this make it a trench coat?

Rather than buying a trench coat pattern, I thought I would use one of my many vintage sewing pattern. Since I have about 143 patterns (and growing), I think I should at least use one that's in my collection. I was thinking of using Simplicity 5607:

Simplicity 5607 (c) 1960 Teen size and Junior Coat, Pants and Blouse.

This pattern deviates from the classic trench coat. It is single breasted, collar-less, not belted and A-line. It is simple in design so I may (MAY) have less f-up. Seems the classic trench coat may be too advance for me and I think it may be best that I do this pattern. I will have to add a lining, possibly a removable collar and change the pockets, or just leave it alone altogether. I do like the 3/4 sleeves but since I may finish this in the fall, I may change it to long sleeves.

I will keep looking though and see if there are any other patterns I can do. I prefer to use a vintage pattern but that is kinda of hard to find but we shall see.

My First UFO Sewing Project Completed

Many times, I read from other blogs about the tons of UFOs one has and how they are piling up. Since I am new to sewing, I hardly have any unfinished projects. However, when I started my PJs a month or two ago, I did cut out a blouse which I intended to wear outside of my home., using the same pattern. I had cut the top using a bedsheet which had a pretty lace border. I wanted to use the border as the bottom of the top. After cutting the material, I put it aside and got buried in a pile new materials.

Since I want to prevent UFOs (which I'm not really sure is possible), I wanted to finish it finally. My intent is to wear this outside of the house (since mind you the pattern was from a PJ top). However, much like my home sewn projects, this is another one meant to be worn only in the confines of my home.




The bright side is that it does look fine as a nightie, and I actually improved on my finishing but it looks maternity-ish, (almost muu-muu-ish) and it looks home sewn. Definitely to be only worn inside the house. I probably will make crop PJ bottoms so I can wear it around (the house).


Oh well, at least I finished it!

Time Out - maybe

We enjoy the outdoors and especially love to tent camp. I still enjoy camping but as I get older and older, I have been less tolerant of public showers and washrooms when we go camping so we've been camping less and less.

Five years ago, we decided to buy a cabin in the mountains of NC as a way to enjoy the outdoors but still have the luxury of being at home. We have everything we need (including indoor plumbing) and enjoy the outdoors at the same time.

Work has been busy and consistent for me, fortunately. However, Bill (who is a carpenter) has been laid off about 3 or 4 times this year due to the industry he is in. Because he has been in and out of work, we haven't dared to take a vacation yet. It's better if he continues to work and we go on vacation when he cannoot absolutely find work.

We'll that time is here, fortunately and unfortunately. We are finally going on vacation. It's not great that he is out of a job because we have no idea how long he will be unemployed. Some of his carperter buddies have been out of a job for months now. But it's also great that we are taking a break because we haven't had a real vacation since last November. I definetly could use one, since professionally I've been so stressed out and so tired. I also have a cold which I can't seem to shake off. I really think it's due to stress. I think all I need is to not work and all will be ok. This vacation is so much over due and very much needed.

This time, I'm going to take my sewing machine and other craft items and just do the things I enjoy. I've got some projects I want to finish so hopefully I can do them all. Otherwise, I'm at least going to relax and not think of anything important.

Nothing is set yet because we are waiting to see if Bill is getting laid off on Wed. We won't find out until Tues. Talk about last minute. I'm really not sure if I really want it to happen or not since things are so uncertain right now. I guess it is what it is and we just have to go with the flow.

Rookie Mistake

For weeks now, I've been trying to figure out why my sewing machine was sewing stiches that were "bubbly." The stiches were not smooth but had a bubble and it was looking as if the stiches were too tight. However, the underside was just fine.

I played around with the tension going from tight to loose. Still no change. I changed the pressure. Again no change. I changed the width length. I changed the length sized. I changed both width and length side. No change. Then I thought maybe it's my sewing needle so I put in a new needle. Nothing. Then I changed the bobbin. Maybe I have the wrong size bobbin. I have a size 12 and 15 bobbin. I thought maybe I grab the wrong bobbin. Again no changed.

For days, I've been f***** around with it because I could not sew a thing until I fixed it. I've been so frustrated with it. I was about to look for a sewing machine dealer who may be able to fix my problem.

Today, I thought I would try it again. This time I would document what I tried to do. I wanted to make sure I did everything my manual says to do and mark it down that I did it. After trying the various steps which I've done days before I realized what was my problem.

I have been inserting the bobbin by just dropping it in and then I fished it out like usual. What I have been skipping was when I drop the bobbin in, I needed to wrap the thread in the slots in the bobbin holder. The thread was not properly in the bobbin tray.

So when I finally put the bobbin in properly, I finally got the smooth straight stiches.

I AM SUCH A FRIGGIN IDIOT!!!!!!

I should really change the title to this blog to "How Not to Sew."

Fabric Store Finder

For convenience, I usually go to JoAnn's or Hancock fabric store to buy my sewing needs since these stores are about 10 minutes from my house. Sometimes I go to Walmart to get materials on the cheap. However, I'm getting tired of the selection so I wanted to see where else can I buy fabrics and such. I found this pretty neat search engine where you can find a store near you. I haven't tested it out to make sure the store still exists but it's a nice concept. It could be interesting.

Indie Fabric Store Finder

What to do...

Work has been so unreally busy that it's been so stressful so finding the time for my hobbies is so important to me right now. It's a nice getaway and stress blocker even thou the hobby that I am focusing on right now is getting better in sewing and it's been slow going but nevertheless, a nice relief from everything chaotic in my life.

I've got lots to do and don't know where to start but one thing I know, I would like to finish a project so I'm just focusing on a few things.

1. Figure out what's wrong with my sewing machine. It's been sewing the stiches to tight but I've tried everything so I'm reading my manual to make sure I've checked everything that I could. I can't sew anything until I figure it out but just need the time to read up. Probably just coz I don't know all the features yet. I inherited this sewing machine from my husband's stepmother's mother. She had this machine for eons and stil works pretty well. I have another sewing machine that my husband bought me last year but it's too technically scary that I want to practice on this older one first before I royally mess it up.

2. Finish my jumper dress. This is the muslin mock up but I am almost done with it. I've already made some mistakes so once I've figured it all out, I can start making the real thing.

3. Figure out how to do side darts and what's that about.

4. Finish this blouse made from a bedsheet. I really like the lacey border so I decided to make a blouse out of it and put the border on the bottom of the blouse. I want to finish this since it's a summer top and want to wear it this summer.

6. Start a new project for my sewing class that starts at the end of August. I already cut the pattern. I just need to do my practice run and see how much I can do on my own. I don't particularly like this pattern but this is what we are doing at class.

7. Read my books that are waiting for me. I love anything related to Pride & Prejudice so I've been collecting any sequels/prequels based on that book. I've read some of these but still have quite a few more to read.

Then I have one book that is not related to P&P (Beat the Reaper). I want to dive into that one soon.

What to do ---- Lots to do. But much better than work.